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Captain’s cologne formula | Basenotes


Captain’s cologne was made by St. Petersburg’s factory “Aurora Borealis”.

Here is an article mentioning it, translation:
Another Group “A” cologne from the Leningrad factory Severnoye Siyanie, created by Vera Lakotkina in 1975-1976, is a real treasure of Soviet production. A powerful, rich and piercingly masculine fragrance that stretches its development from dark green resinous and citrus notes to a deep tobacco-leather trail. From the very first seconds, despite its cold aldehyde-citrusy start with green geranium and gardenia, Captain’s reminded me of the characteristic chord of one of the modern niche fragrances – namely spicy styrax-leather Rien Etat Libre d’Orange (you can compare notes by the way). Capitan’s accord is not as sharp, spicy and scalding. Soviet colognes were not created to shock people around us with their scent, and then to answer the question “what does it smell like?” ironically with “nothing”. Captain’s was created harmonious from the beginning, not for shock, but for life – and that’s why it remains aldehyde-pure even when it enters its darkest phase – burnt styrax, patchouli and tobacco. And even more so when it enters the cedar-leather trail. Another Soviet-era must have for lovers of the leather family.

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Main composition “Captain’s“:

Galbanum essence 1,20
Galbanum gum 1,00
Tobacco Absolute 2,00
Undecylic aldehyde 10% 2,30
Lauric aldehyde 10% 3,00
Citral 3,00
Orris butter artificial 3,00
Vertenex 5,00
Petitgrain oil 5,20
Geranium oil distilled 5,00
Jasmine base 5,00
Styrax resin solution (unspecified %) 5,30
Orange oil 5,00
Lemon oil 7,00
Hydroxycitronellal 7,30
Geraldehyde 2,00
Tobacco flowers base 8,00
Patchouli base №4 (or natural Patchouli essential oil) 15,00
Benzyl benzoate 13,70

To make a cologne, take 3 parts of this composition, 12 parts of water and 85 parts of doubly distilled ethanol.

Artificial orris butter was based on Soviet synthetic substances which had a fatty orris note. This fattiness was considered to be a disadvantage. Jasmine base was based around a molecule called Jasmine-9. It is very like Jasmonyl (Givaudan), but with a longer side chain and longer substantivity.



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