Formula 3. Chypre | Basenotes

OK, I think this formula is super interesting also from a historical perspective. While it contains lots of “first-generation” aromachemicals, it lacks any of the later very tenacious molecules like evernyl, ambrox, superambers, lyral, macrocyclic musks, santalchems, etc. And it lacks the lower-impact structural materials to give “space”, such as IES, hedione, hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, muguets, etc. This is all reflected in the structure of the formula and how it performs on skin.

Regarding the first factor, a few hours after the vetiver effect comes to the fore, all that is really left is santal + musk ketone; by twelve hours, musk ketone is pretty much all that remains. This is, of course, quite different from contemporary fragrances, with strong interesting effects remaining for sometimes days on skin.

Regarding the second factor, the fragrance is sooo dense in its olfactory effects, with basically a single powerful accord at any one time (altho its character of course changes thru the course of the progression). This is also quite different from many contemporary fragrances, which are composed with much more space to support the simultaneous perception of multiple distinct accords at any one time.

So based on all of this, it is clear how the synergistic simultaneous evolution of aromachemical synthesis & perfume composition during the 20th Century had such a profound effect on the perfumes people wear.