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Formula critique mandarin/musk/wood | Basenotes


If you want the mandarin note to show through, you might have to use less of some of the other potent smelling things.

Maybe you should also do more research into how to compose a mandarin accord, and be able to give it highlights.
It’s too premature to say but what you have for the mandarin part might not really be adequate. Using red mandarin oil might not really be worth it, in this perfume I doubt you’d be able to tell much of any difference. (If it were up to me, maybe some regular mandarin EO, mandarin aldehyde, and maybe a hint of ocimene, or dihydromyrcenol, as a second choice) Don’t underestimate what a little linalool can do (maybe 0.7-1.5% of the fragrance). A little nerol might also be useful. Another little thing you could do to emphasise the mandarin is cut down the coriander and replace a little of it with C-10 aldehyde.

I also think you might want to reduce the ultrazur a little bit. That could be overpowering the rest of the fragrance in its olfactory effects. (maybe pinoacetaldehyde instead of some of the ultrazur? though that is the least of your problems)
You might have to reduce the green leaf accord a little as well.

Keep in mind a lot of those perfume accords you are using in your formula already contain high amounts of musk ACs.

In my opinion that’s a very large amount of Galoxide and you should not be relying on it so much to give you the woody note. You should look to some other “woody” materials.
Also the thing you have to understand is there are many different types of “wood” smell. Have you smelled beta-caryophyllene? potent in very small amounts, it smells like a black peppery warm teak wood. Maybe even see if you can get your hands on the recently release captive bases Akigalawood or Dreamwood. Virginiana cedar EO is another common option, but can sometimes be too overpowering in some situations. Firstantol might be helpful if you want some scratchy textured pine sawdust feel, though it is also reminiscent of sandalwood, or 0.5% prismantol could even be useful, smells like wood planks in an indoor construction site.

Kephalis is probably one more that would do well, but I am reluctant to suggest it because you probably already have far too much of a musk effect in your fragrance. So don’t even consider that one unless you drastically cut down on the musks.

My main suggestion would be to drastically cut down on the Galoxide, White musk accord, and dry salt accord, and add them last, maybe only a little at a time and see when it is enough.

Patchouli could be one minor note to consider adding as well, but it’s up to you. Could help tie the citrus to the woody note.

You have a very large amount of things going on in this fragrance, so the solution is not just going to be to add more things. You will have to drastically rebalance what you already have.

Also, in my opinion, you paradisamide might be too high as well. I’m not really sure where you were trying to go with that, or whether this really fits in the fragrance. You might just have too much going on in the fragrance.
a cinnamon note and paradisamide together seem like a strange thing to both be adding into a fragrance.



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