Natural Perfumers Helida Dodd of Marbella Perfumes and Mason Hainey of MIZU/ bottom photo MIZU
In Part 2, (read Part 1 here) of our Perfumer’s Workshop “Perfumers Who Do It All”, we meet two natural perfumers who choose to work with a 100 percent botanical palette: Mason Hainey of MIZU Brand and Helida Dodd of Marbella Perfumes. I paired them together, because in addition to being talented natural perfumers, they have also been valued Contributors to ÇaFleureBon; Mason has written three ingredient posts: ÇaFleureBon Indole in Perfumery, Nutmeg in Perfumery and Labdanum in Perfumery. Helida wrote the memorable Scents of The Appalachian Trail and a loving tribute to her mother Gloria Maria Monteil. Each of their essays are as memorable as their perfumes.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Briefly describe how you learned to make perfume
The world of perfume was something I fell in to. I had dreamed of being a fashion designer or a fine artist, but I soon found myself designing with fragrances as my artistic medium. I learned by playing. I first by read Mandy Aftel’s infamous Essence and Alchemy, and from there I started purchasing and trying as many natural materials as I could find. Blending and mixing…trials and error. In hindsight, those first months of learning are often some of the best. –Mason Hainey of MIZU
From the get go, I knew this would be an undertaking, so I set out to find the best perfume course I could. I wanted something comprehensive that would touch on different aspects of perfumery. After lots of research and books, I found Karen Gilbert in the UK. She has been in the industry for more than 30 years and has worked with naturals, aroma chemicals, and IFRA regulations. I continue to take classes from her and other sources, and I’m constantly pouring over books. One of the best things about being a perfumer is that it allows me to be in a continual learning process. –Helida Dodd of Marbella Perfumes
Mason Hainey of MIZU photos courtesy of Mason
What are your brand missions, especially in light of being natural perfumers?
Scent as Meditation…Since 2012, MIZU designs all-natural fragrances to help others reconnect with nature and themselves. My work bridges the worlds of aromatherapy with fine fragrance to create functional perfume that is good for the planet and our wellbeing. Backed by traditional wisdom and modern science, I create with Respect for the Earth, responsibly sourcing materials from sustainable farms and partners around the world. –Mason Hainey
To show people how nature + luxury can mix perfectly in a bottle. To make my clients feel special and give them a handcrafted fragrance that is luxurious in its raw state. I want them to feel like they finally found the bottle they’ll love from start to finish. Small batches, attention to detail, and sustainability in all aspects of my business are at the core of Marbella’s mission and what make me most proud. My goal is to help small communities as I pamper my clients using the best ingredients I can source. Most importantly, I want my creations be a reminder to the wearers to take in the everyday beauty that surrounds them.-Helida Dodd
Is this a full-time job?
Yes. Being self-employed is like working 3 full time jobs, at the same time. –Mason Hainey
Yes. This is a full-time job. –Helida Dodd
Helida getting a shipment ready
Describe what you do from writing the formula, to creating labels to shipping. Is a spouse or family member involved in any aspect of your business?
At this moment, every single step of the process is done with my own hands: from designing the formula, sourcing sustainable materials, designing all packaging, doing photography, editing, copy writing, website design, customer service. The list goes on. But it’s something I love, otherwise I wouldn’t be doing it. –Mason Hainey
I’m involved in the entire process. For the perfume: I write the formula, bottle the fragrance, package, and ship. I’m also 100% in charge of Marketing. I write all my copy for the website, emails, and social media. Additionally, I do my own PR. I’ve been featured on different outlets – blogs, media, and podcasts. I write all the pitches and all the copy for each of these mediums. The website was originally created by a company, but since its creation, I’ve done all the updates-Helida Dodd
Do you ship internationally? If so, how do you keep up with IFRA and regulations?
I do! I ship directly to customers USA and worldwide, with strong retail partners in much of East Asia. –Mason Hainey
I don’t ship internationally yet, but because of my training I always formulate following IFRA and EU regulations. I want to make sure that when I’m ready to ship internationally, the formula meets IFRA standards and will not need to be changed. –Helida Dodd
Are you able to buy your raw materials from major Fragrance and Flavor companies? Would you want to?
I have purchased from the larger houses in the past. As a natural perfumer, I am always a little cautious of doing so out of concern of just how some companies define “natural “. But the larger houses have a further reach and the capability to partner with small artisan farms to produce some astoundingly unique and beautiful extractions. The key is to sample and follow your nose. And documentation. –Mason Hainey
I’m able to buy from a couple. I formulate with natural materials in small batches, so I haven’t had the need to purchase from some of the bigger houses. After attending the World Perfumery Congress, I have my eyes set on a few ingredients from bigger houses. I’m not sure how easy/difficult will be the process.-Helida Dodd
Helida Dodd of Marbella Perfumes ©
How has social media impacted your brand? How important are blogs and YouTube reviews for awareness and sales? How important is word of mouth?
Word of mouth has been everything for the business. I always want to provide as much value as I can for my customers – I truly do view them as my family. Even though I have been doing this for nearly 11 years, it is so humbling and exciting whenever someone purchases my work. –Mason Hainey
Social media is a channel of communication I use to bring awareness to my brand. However, I don’t forget the best way to bring awareness is what’s available at arm’s length. I’m blessed to be surrounded by a wonderful community in Miami. I don’t want to forget the power of word of mouth. Blogs are probably the most important thing for online awareness, and I’m committed to focusing more time to writing and posting to my blog and not just social media. Another big part of my business is speaking to live and online audiences. –Helida Dodd
MIZU candles/One of Michelyn’s favorites is Baltic Amber (which is designed to empower the solar plexus chakra (the center of strength, personality and self-discipline) and boosts focus and vitality).
Have you ventured into ancillary products such as candles, room sprays etc.?
MIZU first started in candles, and I ventured into fine fragrance as a way to fully express my creative ideas. Being an all-natural candle maker can be quite limiting. But with perfume, the sky is the limit…relatively speaking. I’ve since expanded further into Hair Oils and other products. –Mason Hainey
I have a line of home fragrance in the works. I find a lot of my clients have sensitive noses, and they have been requesting home fragrances. This is an exciting project that started out as a request from an Italian furniture store in the Miami Design District. Its scent is inspired in Northern Italy, mainly Lake Como. It’s soon to be released for testing, but having the chance to work on that project has opened up new ideas and a continuation of a home fragrance line. –Helida Dodd
What are your challenges at retail?
As a natural perfumer, the biggest obstacle is connecting with the customer who has yet to try naturals. The world of natural perfume can be a whole new experience for many. So, the key is to communicate what to expect — natural perfumes are intimate, personal and will change on your body in the most interesting and unique ways. –Mason Hainey
How many fragrances do you release a year?
It varies, but usually between 2-5 new fragrances. However, next year… I have many more coming, and may break that record. –Mason Hainey
I released my first one last year. I have a few things in the works – a woodsy, more grounded fragrance is coming up as well as the line of home fragrances. I don’t feel rushed to create. This first year has been about getting to know my clients and their likes, and taking a close look where I want this brand to go. –Helida Dodd
You are both natural perfumers. Describe the unique challenges of not using synthetics
Working with naturals take so much patience and so much practice. Natural perfumes evolve dramatically as they age — so something you smell right after blending, will often be very different in 2 weeks. Personally, I love to move quick… so this was a bit of a learning curve. But patience is a virtue. –Mason Hainey
My choice for naturals is deeply rooted on who I am, on bringing back something beautiful and sublime to our lives. On bringing back simplicity. Nature does not have an agenda. It’s just there to give us beauty, health, and happiness. The only challenge I could see is naturals don’t last as long, but it really hasn’t been a challenge. I feel people who like Ever Present don’t want a scent that lasts all day long. While this could be a challenge, there are a few ways to overcome it. One way is to get real intimate with the materials. Study them in depth and use their natural fixative properties to help with the longevity of the fragrance. Just as important, I communicate to my first-time natural perfume clients what to expect, but the feedback has been wonderful as far as the sillage of Ever Present. –Helida
Please support our two natural perfumers by purchasing directly from their sites.
For our Natural Perfumers Who Do It ALL draw:
Mason Hainey of Mizu Brand is offering an Eau de Parfum sample set of 3 fragrances (2ml each) Palo Santo, Wild Vetiver and Moonflower to any USA address.
Thanks to the generosity of MarBella Perfumes, we have a draw for a travel size 9.5 of Present for one registered reader with a USA address
To be eligible, you must be a registered reader
Please a comment regarding what appealed to you/or what you learned in Natural Perfumers “who do it al”, and what resonated with you. Please leave in your comment what you would like to win (you can leave both). Draw closes 11/26/2022 and the winner will be announced within10 days later.
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