3.7 Black Pepper Essence
10 Bergamote EO
0.5 Caryophyllene
0.9 Violet Leaf Absolute
4 Sclarene
0.2 Violettyne
0.1 cis-Jasmone
0.5 Mayol
5 Dartanol
1.4 SantalIff
4 Patchouli Essence MD
10 Iso E Super
3 Traseolide
1 Ambrox DL
9 Vertenex HC
0.4 Methyl Laitone
18.3 Clearwood
5 Vetiverol Extra
1.3 Symroxane
5 Fixobois 66606
0.2 Veramoss
2 Ethyl linalool
3 Terpinyl acetate
1.2 Healingwood
1 Lyral
0.3 Myrrh Resinoide Absolute
It starts with a very nice citrusy green top. And in the dry down you have patchouli with the myrrh and some nice freshness. The myrrh is quite essential, because it makes it more interesting. But it’s very strong. I need to say I didn’t love it, but I also don’t hate it. But it was just meant as a draft to test the Violet Leaf.
A colleague of mine told be, he likes it very much, but he would love it more if it would be more masculine with a marine top note. So I removed the mayol and added some tiny amounts of floralazone, C12 MNA and scentenal instead. Then I Increased the healingwood a bit and added clary sage Abs. My colleague loved the result very much.
Another person told me, he also likes my basic formula, but he would love it if it would be a bit more sporty. So I’ve also removed the mayol and added a bit of cascalone DHM and Birch leaf Give instead. The result had a nice sporty top, but the dry down was very soapy. It was back to the drawing board for this.
Today I thought I give it another go. So I removed the mayol, the methyl laitone, the ambroxan and added some pino acetaldehyde, plicatone, maritima, scentenal and ambrette seed abs instead. And lowered the sclarene amount. I’m curious how this turns out, but I will let mature it for a week now.
This basic formula turned out to be a lot of fun and a nice playing ground. I never blended with marine or ozonic materials before. After this test blends I see how they can be useful. And it’s quite interesting how you only change just a little bit of a formula to give the perfume a complete other direction. Feel free to also play with it, if you like.