Tastes change. The “beautiful stink” is less popular than it used to be, resulting in the, mostly bland, fragrances on sale today. 1.0% Civet in anything sold today would, I’m sorry to say, not be acceptable. When Coty launched Chypre people stank. Even the richest did not wash that often. It was difficult to wash clothes properly. I am sure that if I were able to re-visit the 1960’s I would be aware of a much stronger background of body odour than is noticeable today. Civet and Musk in modern perfumery is on the wain, but Oud and the many powerful animalic woody ambers are very popular. Without realising it, we enjoy a “beautiful stink”. we have to be more subtle about it.
DMS, and Skatole, Civet, and Castoreum. Buchu and Bourgeons de Cassis, Grapelione and Corps 1490. Furfural mercaptan. Geosmin and the pyrazines. Proper Musk, and Costus All of these, in the right amounts are vital for a fragrance that goes “zing”.
